Saturday, November 12, 2011

One for the Golfers

Some of the staff here in the Wisconsin in Scotland program did bring their clubs along to Scotland - the home of the game of golf. My swing, being more of a wood-splitting motion than a proper golf swing, lead me to decide to leave the sticks at home. However, I did manage to get out golfing and have made the pilgrimage up to the St. Andrew's Old Course. 

The origins of the game itself are attributed to a region of Scotland known as the Kingdom of Fife. Although this kingdom is now more like a county, or "shire" as they have here, this region is still known as Fife. "Oh, he's from up in Fife," they'll say.

The Kingdom of Fife is a region of rich historical significance. Going back to the Iron Age, through the "Pictish" era, Norse and Roman invasions, through the Anglo-Saxon wars, and into the more current history of Scots and English influence, this peninsula between the Firth of Tay and the Firth of Forth has been some of the prime real estate through it all, in large part due to its productive land and close proximity to ocean trade routes.

If you're interested in some of that really old and fascinating stuff, see:
http://www.discoverayrshire.co.uk/books_history_ayrshire-county%20of%20ayr-scots-picts-cumbrians.html

To get to the bottom of the game of golf, mention of it first begins appearing in texts in the pre-1400's, and the following description, from the website Golfing Scotland, was one of the most succinct and clear that I could find.

PRE 1400: THE ORIGINS OF THE GAME
Throughout recorded history, every civilisation has played a game with a club and a ball. Pangea for example, as described by Roman scribes, would appear to be the father both of modern hockey and the Celtic games of Shinty and Hurling.

In one form or another, the variant games of present day golf were clearly enjoyed throughout Europe in the Middle Ages. The game persisted over the centuries and the form that it took and rules that were applied varied as widely as the terrain the game was played over. In short, the game consisted of knocking a ball from one pre-designated place to another where the ball was to be struck off a predetermined object in the least number of blows. Games often extended from village to village.



That this game was ousted from the towns and onto the commons land beyond is one possible solution to the question of how it all began. Whatever the exact origins, it is known that by the 15th century, "kolf" as it was known in the Netherlands and "goff" as it was referred to in England, was a pastime enjoyed by Kings and Commoners alike. It's kinship to the Great Game however, remains entirely questionable.


So widespread was the game of "Gowf", as it was known in Scotland, that an Act of Parliament was passed to prevent the playing of the game on Sundays and thus preserve the skills of Archery. The citizens of Aberdeen, St. Andrews and Leith on Scotland's East Coast were the principal "gowfing" miscreants and it was no coincidence that rolling sandy links land was commonplace here. On this very terrain, a game that started with a cleek and a ball took on a form that started an evolutionary process that continues to this day.

http://www.golfing-scotland.com/history.asp#1


There have been, of course, many birdies and bogie's since then.

The game as we know it today owes much of its development to the Kingdom of Fife's most famous course, St.Andrews Links.

We have had the good fortune to visit this course a number of times during our time here in Scotland, but I haven't laid out the cash to actually golf "The Old Course." The date of the origin of the course is seen as 1754 when the Society of St. Andrews Golfers held its first tournament. Further prestige was lent to the course when, in1834 William III of Scotland conferred the title "The Royal and Ancient Golf Club" to the place.

Some key historical personalities, that avid golfers may recognize, in the history of the place include the Robertsons and the Tom Morris's, senior and junior. These people are useful posts to use to get a feel for the game's development. The text below is from:

http://www.golfing-scotland.com/history.asp#2

1750 - 1850 : THE ROBERTSONS OF ST ANDREWS
This was the period when golf as we know it today came to be. It was in this time that many of today's great golf clubs were founded and the leading players of the era started to gain renown. The great club-makers and ball-makers of the era began to emerge and the clubs produced by these skilled craftsmen were coveted to the extent that forgeries became commonplace.


Top players began to regularly gather for 'meetings' when medal and match-play rounds were organised, with distinctions made for the first time between amateur and professional players. Allan Robertson, of the famous ball-making family in St Andrews, is widely credited as being the first golf professional. But before Allan, his Grandfather Peter was described as a professional golfer and although history knows little of this man, his reputation survived him and his prowess was widely acknowledged.


One epic contest in 1843 was between Allan Robertson and Willie Dunn, two of the best players of that time. The challenge was held over 20 rounds (2 rounds per day over 10 days) and it was Robertson who triumphed - two rounds up with one to play.

The Robertson dynasty in itself reflects the emergence of the great game. The family can be traced back to one Thomas Buddo, a ball-maker in St Andrews in 1610. His daughter married a Robertson and from this pair was bred the stock that led to Allan himself and along the line produced generations of ball-makers.


At least four separate Robertson families employing over 25 hands were engaged in making balls in St Andrews during the mid 18th Century. Allan by the way, who died in 1859, became the first man to break 80 on what is now the Old Course in 1853.


1850 - 1890 : THE MORRIS AND PARK ERA
If golf as we know it had its birth in the dim and distant past of the 17th century and its upbringing under the Robertson family on the links of St Andrews, then its adolescence occurred abruptly between 1848 and 1852. Three highly significant events occurred in St Andrews that were to turn the game from the parochial into the global. The first of these events was the discovery of the "gutta percha" based ball, known as the "gutty" by James Patterson in 1848. More importantly, the durability of this new ball in turn encouraged the development of iron-faced clubs and so continued the process of evolution.

Then in 1852 the railway came to St Andrews and with it the progenitors of the millions who have made the pilgrimage since. Now the links was played by all and sundry throughout the year and not simply restricted to the busy spring and autumn meetings. The R&A erected it's now famous clubhouse in consequence of the railway, scores of ex-pat colonialists retired to the town and families took up residence so that their sons could attend the University, which was gradually assuming a stature comparable with Oxford and Cambridge. If the 'gutty' transformed the game, the railway certainly transformed the town of St Andrews.


The third event of this period, which comes in two parts, is surely one of the most important events in the long history of the game. Every individual who has made a living out of hitting a golf ball should hold April 20th 1851 as the nativity for that was the birth date of Young Tom Morris, one of the game's greatest early exponents. Similarly, every green-keeper, designer or administrator should express some word of gratitude on the 1st of July for it was on that day in 1851 that Old Tom Morris left for Prestwick to create the first purpose built golf course on the links of Monkton parish.



The place itself is very busy now and there are many tournaments that are held there.  The famous bridge on hole #18 is one of the games most iconic. The following are some of the pictures I took during our visit.

The iconic Swilcan Bridge on 18


Guys warming up for the Alfred Dunhill Links Championships that were coming up the following week-end. Micheal Hoey won and Rory McIlroy took second.



One of the best points of cultural interest that we found is the fact that the course is open to the public on Sundays, providing there isn't a tournament. People walk their dogs and kids are running all over the place. I haven't been to Augusta in Georgia, but I have a feeling that this doesn't happen there.

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The town of St.Andrews is a great place to visit because in addition to this historic golf course, there are other attractions as well. 



These include:

St. Andrews Cathedral, which was first built in 1161 - it is now a 'ruin' that sits at the head of the bay to the town.



There is a nice harbor that features the footings from St.Mary's church which stood at the top of this hill in the 1100's. Yes, almost 1,000 years ago.


There is a nice shoreline and just down the way from the cathedral one comes across the ruins of the St. Andrew's Castle first built in 1203.

Denise and I stop for a photo while walking to the Castle - Great whether this day.
Sunglasses vs. Umbrella!

It is also home to St.Andrew's University - founded 1411 - the 3rd oldest in the English speaking world, it is celebrating its 600th anniversary this year. That's a lot of semesters.

Students "studying" out on the lawn between classes

Administration office - it's been there a while.

As if this weren't enough, there is also a great beach stretching all along the golf courses, which is all open to the public at all times.


All of these sights and activities are within walking distance of each other, the town has great shops and food, and it is only a 15 pound round-trip ride on the train that follows along the coast and through the country side.

I know I sound like the St. Andrews tourism board, but it really is a great place to visit, especially for golf enthusiasts.
_______________________________________________________

As I wrote earlier, I am not a great golfer; however, my brother Patrick is, and he came to visit during our time here, so we got out onto a local course here in Edinburgh called Braid Hills.  Braid Hills is a public course that one can play for about 20 pounds for a round of 18 holes.  This is compared to the 200+ pounds for a round at St. Andrews.

(FYI - current exchange is $1.60 per 1.00 British Sterling Pound - so 20 equals $32.00)

This course, located on an old volcanic core, sparsely covered with gorse (brush), the hill rises out of the city within sight of the Edinburgh castle, Arthur's Seat, and overlooking the entire Forth of Firth was built in 1893. It was laid out by three time Open Champion, Bob Ferguson, and renowned club maker, Peter McEwan.

Under classic Scottish skies and in misty-drippy weather, called a "smir" in Scotland, my brother and I hit the links.

Patrick ready to Rock


Arthur's Seat in the background


Me in the Rough - Again.

Walking past volcanic remnant Hazard

Keep an eye on this one...
 

Edinburgh Castle and The Firth in the background




It is a tough course, but we found as many balls as we lost, didn't really worry about the score too much, and didn't get soaked all the way through, so it was a good outing.

Golf is pretty sweet - especially in Scotland.


Monday, November 7, 2011

Doing it Wrong - Part 2

Due to popular demand, (two out of four sisters have asked for more!) I am adding a part two to the Doing it Wrong posting.  I think that it is often these rather small differences that, when added up, create what we feel to be a "different culture."  I mean actually, after wanting, water, food, shelter, and a sense of belonging to a community, the differences we have from other people all over the world are really just a matter of different ways of frying an egg.

That being said, here are some more differences that have come to our attention as Denise and I continue our quest to find out what it means to be Scottish.

Starting out small, we must look at the bread twist-tie situation. Sorry to say that they are definitely Doing it Wrong here.  The bread comes with a bit of tape wrapped back onto itself. I believe this tape is meant to be peeled apart and used again, as it is of a hearty variety of tape, and I have seen it done on other peoples' loaves of bread.  However, I have neither the dexterity, nor the patience, to work with such a system.

All I ever end up with is a botched up piece of tape and a slightly messed up bit of plastic bread bag.  I swirl the bread, wrap it under, and let the gravity of the bread itself work to keep the loaf fresh.  A bit barbaric, I know, but this tape use idea is beyond the pale.


I had to stretch out and nearly ruin the plastic just to get the tape off and get to the bread!

What can a sane person possibly do with this?
Now, I am sorry to get a little excited about this, and I am sure that there are those who can work the tape to its intended purpose, but I for one, am looking forward to using the good old wire twisty thingy back in the good ol' USA!

I'm hungry when I'm opening bread, I can't be fussing with cantankerous tape situations.

As is often the case every yin has a yang. Just recently, when looking for an envelop in the faculty office, I came across a stack of envelopes that had an odd little flap on the bottom of the opening.



Upon flipping the folded-over part up, I felt a glue like substance below it. The same glue like substance is also found in the traditional place at the top of the folding-over part of an envelop. Could it be? I tried just a little corner of it - good gravy! It is...it's a no-lick stick!  Can you say sliced bread?!  Hay-ooooo! I have seen the no-lick in the States, but it includes a pesky peal-off piece that has to be thrown in the recycling bin, so this is a bit better, not having to decide what to do with that peeled off part.



Moving on, holidays are a big part of any culture, and so far we have really enjoyed the offerings. It was just Guy Fawkes Day which includes a lot of bonfires and fireworks - there is less burning effigies of the Pope now than there used to be and it is now known as "Bonfire night" vs. what started out being "Gunpowder Treason Day" so much of the religious overtone is less emphasized. Perhaps you'll recognize "Remember, Remember the 5th of November" and all that. See below for more on this specifically British celebration:

http://www.bonfirenight.net/index.php

Aside from Halloween and Bonfire Night however, there is one holiday has been looming large since we arrived here in August: Christmas.

It must gonna be a pretty big deal because the stores have had the x-mas stuff out, and the restaurants have been encouraging people to "book" a Christmas Dinner with them for three months now, and there's still two months to go! Now, I understand that many commercial enterprises count on a boost during the Christmas season to make the year turn out in the black, but this is getting out of control.


Perhaps it is because there is no Thanksgiving between Halloween and Christmas, but still, the marketing has been at full throat since September 1st.


Yes, signs everywhere. Now how about some other signage? The most enjoyable signs have been the red and white ones. These are usually a "heads-up" type of sign alerting drivers and walkers to watch out for one thing or another, often signifying the type of person or people drivers should watch out for.  They are meant to be self explanatory - see what you think:





There have also been some signs that leave one thinking a bit...



There was one sign that I saw while driving down a road at 60 miles per hour that read, "On-coming traffic is in the middle of the road"  What the heck?!  I kept driving, cautiously, but didn't stop for a picture.

There is a national effort to Recycle here that is similar to the one I see in Wisconsin. Each home has little buckets to put recyclables into. One feature that I would like to see added to our system that they use here is the "little shower cap" for each bucket, attached to the bucket itself with a bit of bungee, so that things don't get blown around or filled with water. It is always blowing or raining or both here, so I guess this feature was obvious:

The recycling centers are located at major grocery store centers throughout the community, so that when you are done with the container, you bring it back to where you got it - it seems to work pretty well. Drop off the empties, go and get full containers.

Local convenience stores (like our KwikTrips) have a nice way to collect all the used batteries to keep them out of the landfill:



Now, let's go to the grocery store, shall we? This is what my sisters really want to see anyway.

In general they are very much like our own grocery stores. Giant and crowded.  Food from all over the world, over packaged and full of preservatives and genetically modified - perfect, yum-yum. They do have some organic selections, and they do promote items that are "Grown in Scotland." The latter is mostly Brussel Sprouts and Potatoes.  The Scotland meat, however, is all grass fed. Corn does not grow well in this climate, so they don't waste it on the animals. This is why one sees sheep and cattle on every little patch of grass possible.

Sheep grazing on recently havested wheat field between two highways

But I digress. Back to the store and my favorite part: the trolley. Yes, they call them "trolleys" not "carts." Fine. We shop at The Tesco, which is an upper-middle level grocery store. There are other chains that are of lower and higher quality, and the prices are reflective of the quality of the food - like ours at home are too. The trolley's at Tesco are of high quality, which, being the one who works the cart while Denise courageously, tries to find food that is organic, local, and non-GMO, I need a good cart to dodge and weave with. 

The best part about these carts is that all four wheels spin 360.  The carts that I have worked with in the states only have the front two wheels turn 360, which leaves the cart person lifting the back of the cart up to make lateral moves in tight spots. As you will see below, these Tesco beauties turn on a dime!
Built for Speed and Maneuverability
The funniest part about this video might be the fact that right after we shot it, we noticed that there were two people sitting in a car right in front of us - laughing away. "What are those people doing taking a video of a shopping cart?!"  No problem, I nodded and smiled back. It's all a part of a day's work for Doing it Wrong.

One more note on the trolley, because they have invested so much research and development into this high quality food conveyance, the trolleys are rigged with electronic theft control - yea, Wow!

The automatic breaking system - invisible fencing for your grocery cart?! Yes.

This is a long way to go for a high-qually trolley, but worth it to me, the follower.

Also, in the parking lots of the grocery, they have included a pedestrian lane down the middle of the parking stalls - sweet. The trip is less stressful when not dodging cars.


A definite, Doing it Right at the stores is that the check-out ladies (they're all ladies, so I'm not going to write "check-out persons") get to SIT! What a concept. In talking with the girl who agreed to have her picture taken, she said that sometimes she sits, and sometimes she stands. Why not? I did not see any losses in the performance of sliding packages over a scanner due to the scanner being in the sitting position.
Our Groceries: two full bags usually runs around 35-40 British Sterling Pounds, which equals about $60 US dollars.
We like the Tesco. The best part is that we can walk there on the pedestrian path, that runs "under" and away from the busy streets, in about 20 minutes, so it is a nice outing all in all.



I am used to the feeling of being watched here as one is almost always sure to be on some sort of camera. There is prevalent use of CCTV cameras here, and it's not just me being paranoid. Check out the following quote from the The Scottish Sun newspaper:

SCOTLAND has become a 'Big Brother' state with record numbers of spy cams watching our every move up to 300 times a day.

The number of hi-tech CCTV cameras fitted by councils has almost DOUBLED in the last six years. And, incredibly, that means we have more electronic spies than Dublin, San Francisco, Boston and Johannesburg COMBINED.

A special Scottish Sun investigation shows hard-up local authorities have increased the number of public CCTV cameras and mobile camera vans from 1,269 in 2003 to 2,235.
And councils here have coughed up for 253 of those cameras this year alone.


It means Scotland, with a population of just 5.1million people, now has ten times more cameras than Johannesburg — one of the most violent cities in the world — which has 214 cameras and a population of just under four million people.


Thousands of hidden lenses record our images while we shop, wait for a taxi or even go for a quiet stroll in a public park with our kids.
Scots councils and police forces have shelled out over £4million between them to maintain the costly cameras.


Read more: http://www.thesun.co.uk/scotsol/homepage/news/2677993/Shocking-rise-in-the-use-of-CCTV-cameras-in-Scotland.html#ixzz1d0gzRQ7J



Eye in the Sky

This system of crime prevention, while I get it, I don't like. It's creepy and makes me feel less free.

However, there does seem to be freedom here in other ways.  There is the "Right to Roam Responsibly Act" (see detail below). This law has been great for a rambler, and taker of short cuts, like me.

The Countryside & Rights of Way Act 2000 (CROW) sets out that people shall have the ‘right to roam’ responsibly on foot over the open wild uncultivated mountain, moor, heath, and down of Great Britan subject to certain restrictions. The Countryside Agency and Ordnance Survey have produced maps of the”access land” which came into legal force on 14th December 2004.

Certain types of land are ‘excepted land’ and will not be access land:

  • land covered by buildings and their curtilage (surroundings)
  • land within 20 metres of any building
  • land used as a park or garden
  • mines and quarries
  • railways
  • golf courses, racecourses, aerodromes
  • land around water, sewerage, electricity and communications works
  • land covered by stock pens
  • racehorse gallops


One common manifestation of this expectation of one's ability to get from "A to B" is the inclusion of a step-over on most fences.  It is nice not to have to rip one's shirt on barbed wire when crossing a field.
 

Certainly, there is more.

I could get into the right and wrong of Scotland's ruling SNP party's plan to develop and invest in renewable energy vs. investing in new nuclear plants, or it's plan to leave Great Britain and become it's own country by 2014. This is an idea that has been in the works since the 1940's - no sense rushing. Some would argue that it has taken so long because England is stalling, waiting for the oil in the North Sea to run out first. Others would point back to 1707 when the Union began as the origins of this movement.  The SNP has come to power largely on the promise of Independence, but many surveys show that a majority do not back the move. 

Again, I digress. Such topics are more complex than the proper way to fry an egg, so I will leave it to the Scottish to decide what Scotland is.

I am simply a humble visitor, making observations and appreciating their open lands for walking and excellent construction of grocery trolleys.