Thursday, May 1, 2014

Katrice's spring break



Although many students searched out warmer climates for spring break, I did not want anyone in Wisconsin to feel too envious. My family and I spent our spring break exploring Scotland – winter coats and all. We rented a car, a wee yellow Fiat, to see how much stuff we could fit into it. Somehow we stuffed ourselves, clothes, and food into a car that makes a mini Cooper look like a station wagon. 


Seryahna and Djanko at a seaside playground along the way.


 Our first adventure in the daffodil-colored car was to drive along the coast of the Firth of Forth to St. Andrews, home of golf, the 2nd oldest English-speaking university in the world, the beach in the opening scene of Chariots of Fire, and more. Okay, we did not visit any of those fabulous features, but we did see the beach. Instead, we went to the ruins of St. Andrews Cathedral. I was awed at the fact that the origins of the structure began in the 1100s. It fell into ruins after the Protestant Reformation in the 16th century.
 



Everyone needs a break...
Golf: a way of life and, in this case, death





Eiders in the North Sea at St. Andrews

Eider at St. Andrews


















St. Andrews is also home to St. Andrews Botanic Garden. Although it is not as large as the Royal Botanic Garden in Edinburgh, the garden in St. Andrews is impressive. Several glass houses contained micro-versions of various climates and ecosystems, such as Mediterranean and alpine. The garden also had several trails which we explored, admiring the rhododendrons and other plants that were just beginning to flower. 


 

The main part of our spring break consisted of a road trip to the Isle of Skye. On the way, we stayed a night in Kinlochleven, a small town set in the midst of the stunning Scottish Highlands. I will admit that the years that I spent in Washington state have spoiled me in regards to mountains. However, my jaw dropped at the sight of the Highlands. Although many of the mountains are only around 3000 feet, they are not gentle, rolling hills. They are snow-capped, jagged peaks towering all around. No wonder mountaineers seek out these peaks. The peaks look like the tops of the Cascades or Rockies were lopped off and set in Scotland. Absolutely amazing! Ahmyn, Seryahna, Djanko, and I took a couple of hikes, one along the river and another bushwhacking to the top of a wee mountain at the edge of town. The hostel where we stayed seemed to be full of mountaineers, drying their wet gear and planning for their next ascent. In my search for places to stay in the Highlands, having a drying room was often advertised as a bonus feature.
Walking along the River Leven

Kinlochleven

Djanko at the river

Eagle and salmon sculpture

Sculpture? No, machinery from the aluminium industry that was prominent in Kinlochleven.



This is Scotland?!?!

Views from our hike


Djanko, Ahmyn, & Seryahna at the summit

A wee hobbit hut at the hostel


We climbed the wee mountain in the background.

From Kinlochleven, we headed to Skye. The drive was stunning, including a stretch across the Skye Bridge. The clouds had cleared and we could see the Highlands crowding around us. The Isle of Skye’s geography seems to consist of bleak hills fit for sheep, the awe-inspiring Cuillins mountain range, and beautiful shores.   





Did I mention, WOW!?!?!

I'm so glad that it wasn't cloudy. I would've missed this.

We explored some of each of those features. We stayed in the largest town on Skye, Portree, population of less than 2500. Luckily, the weather held out for a hike in the Quiraing. The name comes from Gaelic words meaning pillar and closure (“walkhighlands,” 2013), and that description fits these rocky outcroppings and cliffs. The walk was wonderful as we had stunning views across to the Highlands on the mainland. Walking by old dry-stack stone walls that seemed to separate – well, I am not sure what many of the miles of stone walls separate. Have I mentioned that there are miles and miles and miles of stone walls across the rolling and not-so-rolling hills of Scotland? Anyway, our hike was gorgeous as well as challenging.


The descent

Great spot for  picnic

View from the top of the world -- or so it seems...

The next day entailed a hike along Coral Beach. The beach is a white beach, not due to sand but due to coral. The beach is made up of little tiny bits of broken coral. It looks tropical, but I would not suggest swimming.




Coral


We also hiked to the fairy pools. I am sad to report that I did not see any fairies. However, I did see beautiful waterfalls and pools. Ahmyn was so struck by the surrounding mountains that he climbed a peak in the Cuillins while the kids and I trekked along the river. 
Fairy Pools on Skye
Fairy Pools on Skye

The Cuillins
The Cuillins

Back on the mainland
 
After Skye, sweet Skye, we drove to the Cairngorm Mountain Range. We stayed in a hostel outside of a small town called Carrbridge. For some reason (maybe it was the cloudy weather), we did not hike in the Cairngorms. Instead we headed north to a small town named Forres to see the Falconer Museum. I was a bit disappointed to learn that the Falconer Museum really had nothing to do with falcons. Instead, it was named after Hugh Falconer, a geologist, paleontologist, botanist, and friend of Charles Darwin. For a small museum, there were interesting exhibits, and the folks who worked there were phenomenal. They were excited about Falconer’s work, the town of Forres, and the surrounding area. Thanks to their advice, we saw the Suenos stone (which is Pictish), the Witches Stone, one of the smallest working distilleries in the Speyside region (Benromach), and the beautiful bay to the north in Findhorn. “Witches stone?” you may have asked. Women who were accused of being witches were taken to the top of the hill and rolled down in a barrel. The Witches Stone is where they stopped before they were burned (Forresweb.net). I guess historical examples like the Witches Stone provide a gauge of how justice has progressed over the centuries.  
Suenos Stone from the Picts in Forres

In the park in Forres

In the gardens at the Glen Grant Distillery

The only fairy I saw -- at the Glen Grant Gardens

At the Glen Grant Gardens

For guests at the Slochd Hostel in Carrbridge

Old bridge in Carrbridge -- don't cross it!!!


For more on Forres and Findhorn, see http://www.forresweb.net/attractions/attractions.htm.
After exploring the Speyside region of Scotland, we were glad to head home to Dalkeith. We did stop in Perth along the way. Did you know that Perth was formerly the capital of Scotland? We enjoyed a quick picnic along the River Tay and the sculptures along the path.

sculpture in Perth

Perth and the River Tay

Perth

Once we returned to Dalkeith, we were weary and ready to get out of the wee car. Our travels for the break were not completely finished, but more on that later.

1 comment:

  1. Dale, I wish for you many more experiences of being "pleasantly lost."

    Katrice, I love the wee car, breathtaking views, and your fantastic family.

    Laura

    ReplyDelete