One for the Golfers

Some of the staff here in the Wisconsin in Scotland program did bring their clubs along to Scotland - the home of the game of golf. My swing, being more of a wood-splitting motion than a proper golf swing, lead me to decide to leave the sticks at home. However, I did manage to get out golfing and have made the pilgrimage up to the St. Andrew's Old Course. 

The origins of the game itself are attributed to a region of Scotland known as the Kingdom of Fife. Although this kingdom is now more like a county, or "shire" as they have here, this region is still known as Fife. "Oh, he's from up in Fife," they'll say.

The Kingdom of Fife is a region of rich historical significance. Going back to the Iron Age, through the "Pictish" era, Norse and Roman invasions, through the Anglo-Saxon wars, and into the more current history of Scots and English influence, this peninsula between the Firth of Tay and the Firth of Forth has been some of the prime real estate through it all, in large part due to its productive land and close proximity to ocean trade routes.

If you're interested in some of that really old and fascinating stuff, see:
http://www.discoverayrshire.co.uk/books_history_ayrshire-county%20of%20ayr-scots-picts-cumbrians.html

To get to the bottom of the game of golf, mention of it first begins appearing in texts in the pre-1400's, and the following description, from the website Golfing Scotland, was one of the most succinct and clear that I could find.

PRE 1400: THE ORIGINS OF THE GAME
Throughout recorded history, every civilisation has played a game with a club and a ball. Pangea for example, as described by Roman scribes, would appear to be the father both of modern hockey and the Celtic games of Shinty and Hurling.

In one form or another, the variant games of present day golf were clearly enjoyed throughout Europe in the Middle Ages. The game persisted over the centuries and the form that it took and rules that were applied varied as widely as the terrain the game was played over. In short, the game consisted of knocking a ball from one pre-designated place to another where the ball was to be struck off a predetermined object in the least number of blows. Games often extended from village to village.

That this game was ousted from the towns and onto the commons land beyond is one possible solution to the question of how it all began. Whatever the exact origins, it is known that by the 15th century, "kolf" as it was known in the Netherlands and "goff" as it was referred to in England, was a pastime enjoyed by Kings and Commoners alike. It's kinship to the Great Game however, remains entirely questionable.

So widespread was the game of "Gowf", as it was known in Scotland, that an Act of Parliament was passed to prevent the playing of the game on Sundays and thus preserve the skills of Archery. The citizens of Aberdeen, St. Andrews and Leith on Scotland's East Coast were the principal "gowfing" miscreants and it was no coincidence that rolling sandy links land was commonplace here. On this very terrain, a game that started with a cleek and a ball took on a form that started an evolutionary process that continues to this day.

http://www.golfing-scotland.com/history.asp#1


There have been, of course, many birdies and bogie's since then.

The game as we know it today owes much of its development to the Kingdom of Fife's most famous course, St.Andrews Links.

We have had the good fortune to visit this course a number of times during our time here in Scotland, but I haven't laid out the cash to actually golf "The Old Course." The date of the origin of the course is seen as 1754 when the Society of St. Andrews Golfers held its first tournament. Further prestige was lent to the course when, in1834 William III of Scotland conferred the title "The Royal and Ancient Golf Club" to the place.

Some key historical personalities, that avid golfers may recognize, in the history of the place include the Robertsons and the Tom Morris's, senior and junior. These people are useful posts to use to get a feel for the game's development. The text below is from:

http://www.golfing-scotland.com/history.asp#2

1750 - 1850 : THE ROBERTSONS OF ST ANDREWS
This was the period when golf as we know it today came to be. It was in this time that many of today's great golf clubs were founded and the leading players of the era started to gain renown. The great club-makers and ball-makers of the era began to emerge and the clubs produced by these skilled craftsmen were coveted to the extent that forgeries became commonplace.


Top players began to regularly gather for 'meetings' when medal and match-play rounds were organised, with distinctions made for the first time between amateur and professional players. Allan Robertson, of the famous ball-making family in St Andrews, is widely credited as being the first golf professional. But before Allan, his Grandfather Peter was described as a professional golfer and although history knows little of this man, his reputation survived him and his prowess was widely acknowledged.


One epic contest in 1843 was between Allan Robertson and Willie Dunn, two of the best players of that time. The challenge was held over 20 rounds (2 rounds per day over 10 days) and it was Robertson who triumphed - two rounds up with one to play.

The Robertson dynasty in itself reflects the emergence of the great game. The family can be traced back to one Thomas Buddo, a ball-maker in St Andrews in 1610. His daughter married a Robertson and from this pair was bred the stock that led to Allan himself and along the line produced generations of ball-makers.


At least four separate Robertson families employing over 25 hands were engaged in making balls in St Andrews during the mid 18th Century. Allan by the way, who died in 1859, became the first man to break 80 on what is now the Old Course in 1853.


1850 - 1890 : THE MORRIS AND PARK ERA
If golf as we know it had its birth in the dim and distant past of the 17th century and its upbringing under the Robertson family on the links of St Andrews, then its adolescence occurred abruptly between 1848 and 1852. Three highly significant events occurred in St Andrews that were to turn the game from the parochial into the global. The first of these events was the discovery of the "gutta percha" based ball, known as the "gutty" by James Patterson in 1848. More importantly, the durability of this new ball in turn encouraged the development of iron-faced clubs and so continued the process of evolution.

Then in 1852 the railway came to St Andrews and with it the progenitors of the millions who have made the pilgrimage since. Now the links was played by all and sundry throughout the year and not simply restricted to the busy spring and autumn meetings. The R&A erected it's now famous clubhouse in consequence of the railway, scores of ex-pat colonialists retired to the town and families took up residence so that their sons could attend the University, which was gradually assuming a stature comparable with Oxford and Cambridge. If the 'gutty' transformed the game, the railway certainly transformed the town of St Andrews.

The third event of this period, which comes in two parts, is surely one of the most important events in the long history of the game. Every individual who has made a living out of hitting a golf ball should hold April 20th 1851 as the nativity for that was the birth date of Young Tom Morris, one of the game's greatest early exponents. Similarly, every green-keeper, designer or administrator should express some word of gratitude on the 1st of July for it was on that day in 1851 that Old Tom Morris left for Prestwick to create the first purpose built golf course on the links of Monkton parish.


The place itself is very busy now and there are many tournaments that are held there.  The famous bridge on hole #18 is one of the games most iconic. The following are some of the pictures I took during our visit.

The iconic Swilcan Bridge on 18

Guys warming up for the Alfred Dunhill Links Championships that were coming up the following week-end. Micheal Hoey won and Rory McIlroy took second.

One of the best points of cultural interest that we found is the fact that the course is open to the public on Sundays, providing there isn't a tournament. People walk their dogs and kids are running all over the place. I haven't been to Augusta in Georgia, but I have a feeling that this doesn't happen there.

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The town of St.Andrews is a great place to visit because in addition to this historic golf course, there are other attractions as well. 

These include:

St. Andrews Cathedral, which was first built in 1161 - it is now a 'ruin' that sits at the head of the bay to the town.

There is a nice harbor that features the footings from St.Mary's church which stood at the top of this hill in the 1100's. Yes, almost 1,000 years ago.

There is a nice shoreline and just down the way from the cathedral one comes across the ruins of the St. Andrew's Castle first built in 1203.

Denise and I stop for a photo while walking to the Castle - Great whether this day.
Sunglasses vs. Umbrella!

It is also home to St.Andrew's University - founded 1411 - the 3rd oldest in the English speaking world, it is celebrating its 600th anniversary this year. That's a lot of semesters.


Students "studying" out on the lawn between classes



Administration office - it's been there a while.

As if this weren't enough, there is also a great beach stretching all along the golf courses, which is all open to the public at all times.

All of these sights and activities are within walking distance of each other, the town has great shops and food, and it is only a 15 pound round-trip ride on the train that follows along the coast and through the country side.

I know I sound like the St. Andrews tourism board, but it really is a great place to visit, especially for golf enthusiasts.
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As I wrote earlier, I am not a great golfer; however, my brother Patrick is, and he came to visit during our time here, so we got out onto a local course here in Edinburgh called Braid Hills.  Braid Hills is a public course that one can play for about 20 pounds for a round of 18 holes.  This is compared to the 200+ pounds for a round at St. Andrews.

(FYI - current exchange is $1.60 per ₤1.00 British Sterling Pound - so ₤20 equals $32.00)

This course, located on an old volcanic core, sparsely covered with gorse (brush), the hill rises out of the city within sight of the Edinburgh castle, Arthur's Seat, and overlooking the entire Forth of Firth was built in 1893. It was laid out by three time Open Champion, Bob Ferguson, and renowned club maker, Peter McEwan.

Under classic Scottish skies and in misty-drippy weather, called a "smir" in Scotland, my brother and I hit the links.

Patrick ready to Rock



Arthur's Seat in the background




Me in the Rough - Again.



Walking past volcanic remnant Hazard



Keep an eye on this one...

 

Edinburgh Castle and The Firth in the background



It is a tough course, but we found as many balls as we lost, didn't really worry about the score too much, and didn't get soaked all the way through, so it was a good outing.

Golf is pretty sweet - especially in Scotland.